Sunday, 9 February 2014

San Francisco Golden Gate Park Running Route

Click here for route map
Length 13.7 km (8.5 miles), terrain: total rise of almost 300 meters
NOTE: You can save a kilometer by starting directly at the park instead of in Haight-Ashbury.
Or cut the route in half by turning around before Crossover Drive, circling south around Stow Lake and then head home from there.


Pictures courtesy of the creative folks at Flickr Creative Commons. Thanks! 

San Francisco running routes:
Best San Francisco Running Routes: Overview
Marina Green to Golden Gate
Downtown/Embarcadero/Chinatown/Nob Hill
Ft. Mason/Fisherman's Wharf/Telegraph Hill/Lombard Street
Golden Gate Park
For more running routes, see Route List.

If you're in San Francisco, here's a route that will help you escape the city's pulsing urban bustle. You'll suddenly find yourself enclosed in a wide swath of nature: in Golden Gate Park. The park is a gigantic green rectangle cutting across the western half of the San Francisco peninsula, from the Pacific coast to Haight-Ashbury. It's bigger than New York's Central Park, with over 1,000 acres, being almost 5-km wide and 1-km high.

NOTE: see the Destinations Tips page for tips about spending your free time in this great town!

The area was once considered wasteland, covered by rolling sand dunes. Now, Golden Gate Park is home to a wide variety of fun and scenic stuff: athletic fields, lakes, museums, gardens, a bison herd, windmills, woods and playgrounds, with a stretch of beach and its wild surf along the western, Pacific Ocean end. And the occasional glimpse of Twin Peaks rising over the southern horizon remind you of further running adventures to be had in this part of the city.
The Music Concourse and De Young Museum, photo by Wally Gobetz
Unfortunately, there are a few roads running both lengthwise and crosswise through the park. Originally, it was planned to lower the streets into trenches, as done in Central Park, to keep down the noise and make it easier for pedestrians to move about. But that never happened. The main north/south road, Crossover Drive, is pretty busy. But, luckily, the others aren't normally too noisy, so you can run along them without too much disturbance.

This route will start at the famous corner of Haight and Ashbury, then head west through the Panhandle Park to Golden Gate Park, and then loop counterclockwise through the park to the beach, then back east through the south end of the park and then along Haight Street.

The route mainly follows the east/west roads in the park (John F. Kennedy Drive along the north side and Martin Luther King Jr. Drive along the south). There are other trails in places, off the roads, but to follow them takes a lot of zig-zagging. You might want to try other trails later, with this route giving you a good overview of the park first.

The Golden Gate Park Trail
So, if you're ready to head out, here we go!
Haight Street scene, photo by Adam Mizrahi
At the corner of Haight Street and Ashbury Street, take a look around. This was the center of the flower-power universe in the late 1960s. It's a bit touristy now, but still laid-back and scenic.

Now turn north on Ashbury and run the two blocks to the narrow Panhandle Park.

In the park, turn left and follow Oak Street along the park path, heading west.

After three blocks, a few streets will criss-cross as they join together at Stanyan Street, forming John F. Kennedy Drive. Just stay on the right side and run straight into Golden Gate Park. You'll go by the park headquarters building on the right and just continue on the sidewalk next to the JKF Drive.

There will be tennis courts along the left side, then the beautiful Flower Conservatory greenhouse building on the right, just after the 1-km mark.
The Conservatory, photo by caribb
Just 200 meters past the Conservatory, you'll see the green sign for the Rhododendron Garden and the wicker fences on the left side.

Now cross the street to the Rhododendron Garden and follow the trail down through the big courtyard with the bandstand located between the two museums, at the 2-km mark. This is the "Music Concourse". The Academy of Sciences museum is on the left, just one story tall, with a lawn on its roof. On the right side is the dark, modernistic bunker of De Young Art Museum.

Run past the Japanese Tea Garden on the right side, then take the first path to the right to head northwest towards the north shore of Stow Lake.

NOTE: The Tea Garden normally costs admission, but if you get there before 10 AM on Monday, Wednesday or Friday, it's free, so you could loop through this beautiful oasis, if you wish, with its ponds, pagodas and flower.
Japanese Tea Garden, photo by Kevin Oliver
Now run west along the north shore of Stow Lake, going by the big hill island in the middle of the lake, with its waterfalls. You'll then pass the big boat house, where paddle-boats are rented.

After Stow Lake, you'll start going downhill for the rest of the way to the beach.

You'll come back to JFK Drive just before it goes under the north/south overpass of Crossover Drive (the biggest, loudest street in the park, with six lanes), and continue westwards running along the north side of JFK Drive.

You'll run past Lloyd Lake and then, a kilometer later, Spreckels Lake, where a little waterfalls comes right down to the sidewalk.

Right after Spreckels Lake, at the 5-km mark, you'll come to the Bison Paddock, with its herd of buffalo.
The windmills along the west side of the park, looking south. Photo by Sara Rosado
After the Bison Paddock, you'll pass the golf course and then JFK Drive turns northwest and goes through the last part of the park. Just before you leave the park, you'll see the Dutch Windmill along the right side. You can follow its driveway to loop past the mill and back out to the street again. This was one of two 100-year-old windmills built to pump water into the park lakes for irrigation.

JFK Drive will then end as it runs into the Great Highway, lining the Pacific coast, with the wide sands of the Pacific beach stretching out in front of the crashing waves. Cross the highway at the cross-walk and run out onto the beach, where you turn left to run south.
Beach at Golden Gate Park, photo by Juha Ristolainen
Run for less than a kilometer, until you get to the cement outlook structure in the sand, where you turn inland again at Lincoln Way, which runs along the south edge of the park. This is the 7.5-km mark.

There is a footpath running parallel to Lincoln Way. Follow that path. You will go by Murphy's Windmill, the other windmill, which was recently totally rebuilt.

Now it's a gradual uphill run on the return trail. Follow the path as it joins in with Martin Luther King Drive, just inside the south edge of the park. You'll now just basically run along the sidewalk beside this street all the way through the park, heading east.

At the 10.5-km mark, you'll go under the Crossover Drive again.

You will soon be running by the Botanical Garden along the right side, as the road circles around it to the north. NOTE: If you get there between 7:30 and 9 AM, admission to the Botanical Garden is free, so take an extra loop through this beautiful garden with its ancient trees and bamboo woods! You'll also go by the southern edge of Stow Lake on the other side of the street.
Trees at sunset in Golden Gate Park, photo by Josh Liba
At the main entrance to the Botanical Garden, just before getting back to Lincoln Way, turn left to stay on Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, with baseball fields off to the left.

Martin Luther King Jr. Drive ends when it runs into Kezar Drive, where you turn left to continue running eastwards.

Stay on the north side of Kezar Drive, going by the creatively done playground on the left side, and the stadium where the 49ers used to play on the right side. Most of the seating in Kezar Stadium has been removed, and now it's used by high schools.

After Kezar Drive makes a sharp left turn, run down through the underpass under Kezar Drive at Alvord Lake, continuing eastwards through the last bit of the park.

Exit the park to cross Stanyan Street and run east along Haight Street, at the McDonald's, along with a parking lot and other signs of advanced civilization. But soon you'll be running by relics harking back to the flower-power days, like the Amoeba Music shop. The street has retained a lot of hippie charm despite the fact that it's now aimed at tourists.

I hope you enjoyed this pleasant side of San Francisco!

Saturday, 1 February 2014

Bruges Old Town Running Route

Click here for route map
Length 7.1 km (4.4 miles), terrain: flat

Pictures courtesy of the creative folks at Flickr Creative Commons. Thanks! 

For other running routes, see Route List.

Bruges (Brugge in Dutch, the local language in Flanders) is one of the most beautiful towns on the planet. Its unique mix of medieval buildings, canals spanned by old stone bridges, gate-towers, windmills, rich merchants' homes, impressive churches and long riverside parks make it one of the most fascinating places you'll ever go. And the trails along the river and canals also make for some great runs.
Along a Bruges canal, photo by Robert Vignola
Bruges' medieval old-town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and as soon as you see it, you'll understand why. In the middle-ages, the town became very wealthy by weaving cloth and lace, and trading in spices and textiles. It was one of the wealthiest members of the Hanseatic League. And its rich merchants built a stunning collection of private and public buildings within the old city walls. I was absolutely bowled over by it, the first time I visited. And that fascination hasn't diminished a bit with time.

So, if you're lucky enough to spend some time in this great old town, let's do a run along (in my humble opinion) the best route around, combining the riverside, some canals and the most interesting sights in the old town.

We'll start the run at the 700-year-old Church of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk in Dutch), with its collection of art treasures, including one statue by Michelangelo. At the street-corner, near the church tower, turn south and start running down Mariastraat.
Church of Our Lady, photo by Alex Torres
You'll quickly pass another church on the right side, Sint Jan, and then run over the first beautiful canal view.

Keep running south for two more blocks along this narrow shopping street, then turn right into Walstraat.

Run just one block to the first tree-filled square, Walplein, and turn left.

At the next crossing, Wijngaardstraat, turn right, heading into the next little square, lining a canal, the Minnewater. Here you cross the bridge over the canal and head straight through the little gate-house into an amazing little neighborhood, the Begijnhof. You find yourself in a peaceful, tree-filled square lined by old white houses. Almost every town in the lowlands has a Begijnhof: a lay society of Christian women who live like nuns but are not bound by vows. The benches seem to beckon to sit down for a minute, an afternoon or a lifetime.
Begijnhof, photo by nuance1979
Circle the square around to the left side, then exit to the south, following the stone path past the church. You'll see a little canal on the left, where you turn left and exit the Begijnhof through its other gate tower, with the battlements on top.

You'll come out to the Minnewater again where a cool old brick house, the Sashuis (the sluice-keeper's house), spans the water. Turn right here to continue southwards along the Minnewater, on the dirt path under the trees. There's a house that looks like a little castle across the small lake.

At the end of the water, at the one-kilometer mark, you'll come to a remnant of the old city walls, the round gun-powder tower. Now turn left and cross the bridge over the Minnewater and head east along the main canal, the Ghent-to-Ostende Canal.

You are now following a footpath in a canal-side park, skirting the old town along the site of the old city walls. You'll run by other old defensive towers and cross over a few side-canals. The trail follows the canal as it slowly curves towards the north.
Canal-side trail with windmill, photo by nadiology
After the 3-km mark, you'll pass the double-towered Kruispoort city gate and then you'll see a series of four old windmills lining the trail up ahead.

After the fourth windmill (at the 4-km mark), the canal-side trail ends at Potterierei (Pottery Row). Turn left here. This beautiful street follows a smaller canal as it winds into the heart of the old town.
Along Pottereirei, photo by Isabelle Puaut
After another kilometer, the canal splits. Turn right onto Spinolarei to follow the main section westwards till its end in just three more blocks at the square called Jan Van Eyckplein, with its statue of the great Bruges painter. The square is lined by beautiful merchants' houses.
Van Eyckplein, photo by Mark W. Weston
Now cut diagonally through the square to the right and keep running straight west on Academiestraat for one more block. You're now back in the shopping district and increasingly more pedestrians.

Turn left onto Vlamingstraat and run past the old theater and shops for a few blocks, straight towards the massive tower of the belfry (bell tower), on the city's main square, the Grote Markt. It's still used as a market on some days, so you might see food stands packed into the square. This is also the 6-km mark. You're now in the heart of town, where there will probably be some crowds to slow you down, but it's worth it to see this part.
Restaurants on the market square, photo by Roger Marks
You might as well take a tour of the square and the impressive guild-houses that line each side. The north side, where you entered, is lined by restaurants, where you can get great Belgian meals like steak bearnaise. The statue in the middle of the square depicts Bruges freedom fighters who freed the city from the French. There is a palatial provincial building along the east side.

The square is dominated by the huge, 700-year-old belfry. When you get to the belfry, turn left to exit the square to the east along Breidelstraat. In just a few steps you'll come into the next beautiful square, Burgplein (Castle Square), with its collection of amazing buildings.
The castle and Liberty, photo by Rose Trinh
The town hall now occupies the statuary-covered gothic castle, on the right. And the ancient Basilica of the Holy Blood, with its golden statues, sits to its right side. The 900-year-old church houses a relic that is said to contain the blood of Jesus. The little, white "Liberty" mansion is to the left of the town hall.

Now keep running northeast along Hoogstraat (High Street) for two blocks until you reach the little lane called Meestraat, where you turn right and run over the bridge spanning the next canal. This is perhaps the most beautiful canal in town, with its trees and footpath, and it's where most of the tourist boats cruise.

After the bridge, turn right and follow the canal westwards along Steenhouwersdijk (Stonemasons' Dike). You'll pass the arcaded outdoor fish-market.
Steenhouwersdijk, photo by fmpgoh
Follow the path as it goes into the next little square, where you're forced to turn left and then exit the square at a bend in the canal. You are now in the midst of the worst tourist masses, but we're almost done, just a few blocks to go!

Turn right onto Rozenhoedkaai and follow the canal on your right side. You now have one of the most beautiful views you'll ever see to your right, with the old buildings, churches and the belfry rising above the bend in the canal. I find it hard to not stop and gape at this spot, but you can always come back again later.
Dijver, photo by N1D0
Now you just keep running southwest along the canal towards the starting point at the tower of the Church of Our Lady, which you can see down the street. The street name changes to Dijver along the way. About the only thing you can say after a run like this: what a beautiful town!

Friday, 24 January 2014

Sydney Bondi to Coogee Beach Running Route

Click here for route map
Length 12.3 km or 6.1 km one-way (7.6 miles, or 3.8 miles for one-way)
terrain: mainly flat, with many stairs and short hills (gain 100 meters)

In addition to my own pictures, I added a few better ones from the creative folks at Flickr Creative Commons. Thanks!

Sydney Running Routes:
Best Sydney Running Routes: Overview
Central Businesss District (CBD)  
Harbour north shore  
South Head and Watsons Bay  

Bondi to Coogee Coastal Run
Manly Beach Run
Centennial Park Run Check the Routes by Country/City page for more routes

Sydney is the most livable city I've ever visited, with its beautiful bay, good weather, pub culture and outdoor recreational possibilities. And the beaches along the coast add the crowning touch. So make sure you get out to some of Sydney's beautiful beaches, sand crescents backed by cliffs, with swimming pools set into the cliff bases, and with rocks out in the distance and surfers out among them, braving the huge breakers. The cliff rocks are often carved by the winds into fascinating matrices of mini-caves and ledges.
View of Coogee Beach from the south along the Coastal Walk
This spectacular route follows the Bondi to Coogee Coastal Walk, between these two beach neighborhoods in eastern Sydney. The trail follows the sandstone clifftops, with all the great scenery in between. It visits five beaches, plus countless vistas, rocks, parks, rock-pool baths, and beach houses: it's one of the most inspiring spots for a run that you'll ever find, anywhere. And it's right in this multi-million-resident city.

NOTE: see the Destinations Tips page for tips about spending your free time in this great town!
 
On one of my last trips to Sydney, I decided to get a room in Bondi to enjoy some beach life in depth, and I was glad I did. You can get there from the city center by taking the T4 train to Bondi Junction, then a bus to the beach (lines 380, 381, 382 or 333). The trains and buses all run every 10 minutes. The 380 and 333 buses to Bondi Beach also leave directly from Circular Quay, in the city center.

NOTE: At the end of every October, there is the Sculpture by the Sea exhibit along a 2-km section of the coastal walk, south of Bondi. Very cool stuff, but there are big crowds along the trail then, so make sure you run early before the crowds arrive.
Bondi, with ocean pool and Icebergs Club
We'll start the run at Bondi Beach, at the pavilion right at the center of the beach. Turn to your right and, past the big semicircle of sand, you'll see the ocean pool of Bondi Baths. The coastal walk begins on the street right above the baths.

So start running along the beach (either on the sand or on the promenade) towards the steps rising up to the right of the baths. The steps take you up to Notts Avenue, where you turn left and run past the Bondi Icebergs Club, which runs the baths. The Icebergs only allow members who have proven that they have gone swimming on most winter days for a few years in a row. And they have over 600 members!

The street soon ends in a cul-de-sac, and you take the trail leading off to the left at the Coastal Walk sign, heading down along the rocks, with the waves crashing below you. You can see surfers ahead, off the cliffs of Mackenzie’s Point: it looks a bit dangerous out alone among those big rocks.
View from Mackenzie's Point
The trail winds around the rocky point at Marks Park, then heads west towards quiet Tamarama Beach and the park rising up the hillside behind it.

At Tamarama, you can either follow the trail down across the beach and then back up the stairs again on the other side, or exit the trail at the Tamarama SLSC lifeguards' house by taking the steps going up to Gaerloch Avenue and then follow Pacific Avenue as it loops around the beach and park.
Bronte Beach, photo by Chavelli
The trail now becomes a sidewalk along Marine Drive until you you round the next rocky point and come to Bronte Beach. At Bronte, at almost the 2.5-km mark, you can either cross the lawn of Bronte Park or run down along the paved promenade just above the beach itself. At the other (south) side, before the rock pool baths, you can take the stairs up to the street just above. This narrow one-way street used to be the old tramway, heading uphill.
Stunning Bronte sunset captured by Sacha Fernandez
At the top of the rise, where the street turns to the right to head inland, leave the street to enter the Calga Reserve park, above the cliffs. At the far (south) end of Calga Reserve, look for the new boardwalk that takes you along the water side of Waverley Cemetery (you used to have to run inland, behind the cemetery). This is about the half-way point of the way to Coogee, at three kilometers.

After the cemetery, the trail continues downhill along Ocean Street, with Burrows Park to the left, along the water side. You'll pass some lawn-bowling fields. After the last lawn-bowling field, at Warner Avenue, you could cut eastwards through the park to run along the cliffs again, instead of running along the street.
Along the cliffs
When you reach the south end of Burrows Park, you'll see the narrow, fjord-like bay of Clovelly ahead. The trail now leaves the road to head down to Clovelly Beach. You can either try to cross the loose sand of the beach or follow the trail as it winds back behind the beach and back around the other side, as you pass the 4-km mark.

The trail now follows the south shore of Clovelly Bay, heading up above the small rock-pool bath, and then up around the beach parking lot. You can already see Coogee Beach stretching out back behind the next rocky point.

Maybe you thought you had seen as much gorgeous scenery as anybody possibly could during one run, but now, at the end of the parking lot, you come to the next beautiful bay, Gordon's Bay. The whole bay is lined by cliffs and rocks, and is a protected reserve.
Beautiful nature in Gordon's Bay, photo by Deborah & Kevin
The trail follows the cliffs around the bay, going over a spot where local fishermen leave their little boats parked up under the cliffs, at the 5-km mark.

Heading back uphill again at the south end of the bay, the trail enters Major Street, where, after a few houses, you can take the trail as it goes into the park on the left, Dunningham Reserve. You'll loop through the park and then head down to the last bit of the run: into Coogee Beach.
Coogee Beach, looking back at Dunningham Reserve
When you reach the semicircular steps at the middle of the beach, this is the end of the route. One of my favorite Sydney hangouts is right across the street: the Coogee Bay Hotel and its courtyard pub.

Now either turn around and run the 6.1 kilometers back to Bondi or take the bus. The 362 line heads back to Bondi Road, just a few blocks south of the staring point, or lines 372, 373 or 374 will take you back to the city. But I would plan to spend some more time out at the beach, wherever you stop, and go for a swim (there are showers) and try out one of the cafés. At Coogee, for example, you can sit outside overlooking the beach at the Barzura café, and enjoy their creative menu. Hey, this is the life, enjoy it!

NOTE: You could even continue running southwards from Coogee towards Maroubra or further, if you haven't had enough of this beautiful coast yet, adding a few more kilometers to this beautiful route.