Historic Cologne (Köln) Running Route

Click here for route map 
Length: 8.6 km (5.3 miles), terrain flat

Cologne Running Routes:
Historic Sights 
Green-Belt  
Rhine River Route   
For more running routes, see Route List.

Cologne is one of the oldest towns in Germany, founded by the Romans over 2000 years ago. And there are enough historic sights to connect a lot of them together into one run. And a big part of the route will be along the scenic Rhine waterfront, so there will be enough nature added in.

Dom entrance

NOTE: see the Destinations Tips page for tips about spending your free time in this great town!
 
This route will start in front of the amazing Cologne cathedral (the "Dom"), visit a few Roman artifacts, then head south up the river to the old Prussian forts, then loop back along the medieval city walls before heading back through the center of town again.

NOTE: There are paths along both sides of the Rhine River in both directions from the Köln center, lined with several nice parks. So you can't go wrong by just running along the river. Every bridge, even the railroad bridges, has a pedestrian walkway over the river.

The Historic Cologne Route
Standing on the square in front of the Cologne cathedral is an experience in itself. The gothic facade and twin towers are massive, and it was once the tallest building on earth. Make sure that you don't leave Cologne without touring the insides of the church. The gigantic space inside, with beautiful stained-glass windows, and the reliquary of the magi (three wise men), and the crypt are impressive from every angle. The cathedral took 7 centuries to build, and survived basically intact through the World War II bombing raids, taking 70 direct hits, but still surviving.

Detail from the Dom front doors

Standing there, looking at the front side of the church, turn to your right and run past the fountain on the right side of the church and then turn left to run straight towards the Römisch-Germanisch (Roman-Germanic) Museum, next to the cathedral.

Looking into the Roman museum

The museum has a lot of well-preserved roman artifacts, mainly grave monuments. Luckily, you can see lots of it just by looking into the glass windows. One temple-like mausoleum dominates the exhibit. Outside the museum building there are also lots of carved stones on display. The museum is in the heart of the original Roman town, which had the first bridge across the Rhine. This settlement formed the spearhead of the Roman's long, and ultimately unsuccessful, struggle to subdue the German tribes across the river.

Make a loop around the small museum building. On the side next to the Dom you can see the cathedral's stone masons' workshops down in the courtyard next to the church. The masons have to constantly replace weathered stones on the facade, a never-ending process.

Roman street paving: were there skateboarders in the Roman days?

Back at the plaza, turn left and go a few steps to take the old Roman street sloping down towards the river, now a favorite hangout for skateboarders. The stone structure on the right is a remnant of the Roman sewer system (yes, they had sewer pipes 2000 years ago!).

Run downhill to the river and then turn right to run south along the water. This is the old town area, full of waterfront restaurants and pubs. This is the best place to hang out on a nice summer evening.

Promenade along the Rhine

But before going straight down the river, we'll take a little loop through the old town to get a flavor of it. The few blocks directly along the river are the most interesting.

St. Martin's in the old town

When you see the romance-style St. Martin's church come up on the right, turn right and run up the street to the left of the church, on Lintstraße. The houses are typical of the lower Rhine, and very similar to the style in Holland, with their high windows.

The street ends in a couple of blocks at the Alter Markt (Old Market), full of more restaurants and pubs. Turn left here and run the block to the next market square, Heumarkt (Haymarket). Immediately turn left again and run down the little lane, Salzgasse, downhill towards the river again. This area is also full of restaurants, pubs and clubs. Salzgasse ends at Buttermarkt, where you turn right and run through the rest of the old town for a few blocks.

Courtyard behind Salzgasse

The old-town buildings end at a plaza just before the bridge, Deutzer Brücke, that goes over to Deutz (pronounced "Doits") on the other side of the Rhine.

Before the bridge, cut over to the water's edge and then run under the bridge, heading up-river to the south. We'll keep running along the riverside until the turn-around point.

After a few blocks, you'll see the old harbor island coming up ahead, with the rounded-glass front of the Chocolate Museum at the tip of the island. Cross the old metal bridge over to the island and run over to the new promenade along the river here. It's nicer and quieter than the street along the mainland.

Running towards chocolate museum

The harbor was just a run-down industrial area a few years ago, with no way to run along the water, but has been redeveloped with new offices and apartments and warehouse conversions. Cologne, like a lot of cities with big, industrialized waterfronts, have (hallalujah) rediscovered the areas as great places to live and work.

After some blocks, you'll pass the old Bayenturm tower from the old city walls, on the right side. You are now leaving the medieval town center of Cologne. We'll get back to run along part of the wall on the way back.

You will see the metal arches of the railroad bridge coming up ahead. Just after the last riverfront building before the bridge, turn right and cross the street (Agrippinaufer) at the pedestrian crossing. You'll see a round, red-brick fort straight ahead, in a woodsy park. The fort (called the Rheinschanze) was part of a ring of fortifications built by the Prussians after they got ahold of this area following the Napoleanic Wars. The Germans were forced to demolish most of the defences after World War I.

The Rheinschanze fort

Nowadays, the area has been turned into a beautiful park. So run through the archway on the left side of the fort, into the park behind it. On a nice day it will be full of people playing boules, picnicking or just hanging around.

Circle the little fort and come back out at the front entrance again. Now run directly away from it on Titusstraße. Another park lines the right side. A block later, the street comes to an oval square, where you turn onto Mainzer Straße and run 2 more blocks until you come to the big Ring street, with its tram line. The ring street forms a half-circle surrounding the old city walls.

Cross the ring street and run one more block to the wall itself. You will come to the Bottmühle, an old windmill tower surrounded by a green grounds. In the old days, it was common to use the city-wall towers as windmills. Today, a youth group, the "Falken" use the tower.

Actually, along this section, there isn't any wall to see, just the old towers.

Now turn left on Severinswall and follow it 2 blocks to the old city gates, the Severinstorburg. Pass the gates, as the street name changes to Kartäuserwall. The street isn't very spectacular, but it's quieter than the ring road.

Metallic guard at Ulrichturm

When you pass the next old tower, the Ulrichturm, the street opens up into a park on the left side. Now run towards your left, along the ring street here, so that you can see the section of old city walls coming up. There is a length of about 200 meters of wall here, giving you a good impression of the old defences.

Wall section with watchtower

After the park, run one more block along the ring street, then turn right on Am Weidenbach, and head into the center of town. After a block you'll pass the old St. Pantaleon church and a park. Keep running straight, past a stumpy tower-ruins, as the street name changes to Kleiner Griechenmarkt, then Fleischmengergasse. This neighborhood isn't beautiful, but is typical for Cologne. Most of the city was flattened in the war, and was replaced by fairly simple buildings afterwards.

The street comes out at the east end of the Neumarkt square, where several tram lines converge. Run straight to the back side of the square and turn right on the pedestrian shopping street, Schildergasse. This is the main shopping area in the town center. Just follow the street eastwards back to the old town, staying on the right side, Gürzenichstraße, at the spot where it forks.

When you come to the first really old building, a big gothic-looking thing with battlements running along the roof, turn left on Quatermarkt. The building, the Gürzenich, is a 550-year-old venue where kings and kaisers have held receptions, and it's still used as a venue today.

Archaeological dig at the Rathaus

In a block you'll come to an open square in front of the old city hall (Rathaus). The square is a giant archeological dig at the moment. Among other houses, a medieval synagogue was located here, and the site is being turned into a Jewish museum.

Go past the digs, and turn right to look at the facade of the town hall. The first part is a reproduction of a roman building, built in the kaiser-era. The kaisers liked reaching back historically to the Roman times: the word "kaiser" comes from "caesar", and for a thousand years the German kings held the title "Emperor of Rome" in the Holy Roman Empire.

On the left side of the city hall, you'll find its gothic tower, rebuilt after the war.

Rathaus gothic tower

After the city hall, keep running on Bürgerstraße, and you are almost back at the start of the run. In 2 blocks, the street ends at Am Hof, with another gothic building on the corner. Turn left to run 1 block and then you'll see the plaza next to the cathedral on your right. Just run up the steps onto the plaza, past more skateboarders, and you're back at the Dom and the roman museum.

These guys were playing Pachelbel's Canon at the Dom

London Regents Canal / Camden Town Running Route

Click here for route map 
Length: 9.1 km (5.7 miles), terrain flat

London Running Routes:
Best London Running Routes: Overview
Thames Embankment
Docklands-LimehouseRegent's Canal and Camden Town  
Hampstead Heath  
3-Parks Route: Hyde Park, Green Park, St. James' Park  
Regent's Park  
Hyde Park   
Chelsea
Heathrow Harmondsworth Moor  
Greenwich 
Richmond Park
Notting Hill
Victoria Park
Wimbledon Common Trail Run
Royal Docks/ExCeL Route 
Kew / Brentford Thames Run  
For more running routes, see Route List.
If you're staying around Paddington, you probably think Hyde Park is the only place nearby for some green outdoors. But this run will teach you otherwise. Beginning right behind Paddington Station, you can experience a great run along the Regents Canal, with water, landscaped canal-banks and wonderful old narrowboats lining the way. And then, for a total contrast, take a loop through Camden Town, London's most bizarre neighborhood and hip evening spot, and cut through Regent's Park on the way back.

Sound interesting? Then, let's go!

NOTE: see the Destinations Tips page for tips about spending your free time in this great town!
 
When I said that the route starts right behind Paddington Station, I REALLY meant it. You literally need to walk through the station, along the platforms for the Heathrow Express, then go up the stairs or the ramp at the back of the station, at the entrance for the Circle Line underground.

But instead of going into the tube station, go to your right along the walkway to Paddington Basin, just 20 steps to the right. You will soon be standing there with a canal in front of you and a lot of new office development all around.

Start of the run at Paddington Basin

Just turn left, and off you go. The water will be directly to your right.

After just a few blocks, you'll come to the first highlight of the run: Little Venice. This is one of my favorite spots in London, a triangular stretch of water lined with narrowboats on 2 sides. Narrowboats are the old canal boats built to be able to pass each other on the canals, whose heyday started eclipsing already back in the 1850s, when the railroads began spreading throughout England. Now the boats are used as houseboats, tour boats and excuses for endless restoration projects.

Little Venice

There's even a little café in one of the boats at Little Venice. What a hangout.

Cross the bridge to the other side of the canal, then turn right to run along the north bank of the canal from now on, with the water still on your right side. This is the old towpath. In the old days, men and horses were hitched to the barges, and pulled them from the towpath.

Running towards the canal tunnel

After a few blocks, at Aberdeen Place, the canal goes into a tunnel for a couple of blocks. Just run straight ahead along the street overhead, until it makes a sharp left turn, with a brick wall in front of you. Right at the turn, there is a gate in the wall: go through it and down the metal stairs and you are on the towpath at the water again. There is a big narrowboat basin here.

The canal goes under a few bridges ahead, the least scenic part of the canal, but then the world becomes quiet and green after entering Regent's Park. The canal forms the northern boundary of the park, curving around its north side. At first there are some big mansions lining the way.

Later, it goes by the London Zoo, and the bird aviary is right next to the path, with storks, egrets and peacocks lining your way.

Going by the London Zoo aviary

After another boat mooring and a sharp left turn, the canal enters the Camden Town area.

Regent's Canal in Camden Town

Many more people will be using the towpath, and water-sports people paddling kayaks are often out having fun at the Pirate Castle rowing club.
 

Pirate Castle kayakers

At Camden Locks -- a working, manually operated boat lock -- the path crosses over a bridge to the other side. Just before the bridge, turn left, into the courtyard of the Camden Market. This wonderful (but touristy) place is worth a walk-through.

NOTE: For a route along the eastern section of Regents Canal, see the Victoria Park route listed above!

Camden Locks

Continue out the back of the courtyard into the little lane, Camden Lock Place. From here, you'll find the main entrance into the covered part of the market. Make sure you go through it: the giganic statuary and creative touches are amazing. The building used to be a stables, hence horse statues all over the place.

Camden Market

Now come back out at the Camden High Street, where the old railroad bridge crosses overhead. Next, head to the right, running over the canal, southwards past all the shops with their gigantic figures bulging out over the street: airplanes, shoes, jackets, you name it...

Along Camden High Street

In just a couple of blocks, you'll pass the Camden Town tube station on the left and then come to a big intersection. All the interesting shops on Camden High Street end here.

So turn right here on Parkway, another lively street, going past the London Jazz Venue club and and Odeon cinema and other restaurants, pubs and clubs. If this street doesn't give you ideas on how to spend this evening, nothing will.

Keep running straight. In just 4 blocks you'll run straight into the side of Regent's Park.

You could turn right there to get back to the canal, but to see something different, we'll cut straight across the park and connect with the canal on the other side.

NOTE: If you're interested in seeing more of this great park, see the Regent's Park Route.

When you cross the Outer Circle road and enter the main part of the park, take the path that goes off diagonally to the left. This heads towards a small gothic-styled monument and then straight on across the athletic fields towards the central mosque and its minarette at the far side of the park. On nice afternoons and evenings the fields are full of happy players: there's cricket, soccer, rugby and a surprising amount of softball.

Regent's Park athletic fields: head straight across to the minarette

After the athletic fields, the path edges the park's boat-rental pond and then you'll exit Regent's Park on Hannover Gate, going past the mosque on your right side.

The street ends at Park Road in one block, where you turn right and run a block to the canal, where you descend to the towpath and run back to Paddington.

Now that was something really different!

London Hampstead East-Heath Running Route

Click here for route map 
Length: 7.2 km (4.5 miles), terrain hilly

London Running Routes:
Best London Running Routes: Overview
Thames Embankment
Docklands-LimehouseRegent's Canal and Camden Town  
Hampstead Heath  
3-Parks Route: Hyde Park, Green Park, St. James' Park  
Regent's Park  
Hyde Park   
Chelsea
Heathrow Harmondsworth Moor  
Greenwich 
Richmond Park
Notting Hill
Victoria Park
Wimbledon Common Trail Run
Royal Docks/ExCeL Route 
Kew / Brentford Thames Run  
For more running routes, see Route List.
I ran this route again this week to get the pictures, but it was raining out! But even wet runs are great runs.

Hampstead and its sprawling open countryside, the Heath, gives you a feeling of being in an English village, while standing in the heart of London. The Heath spreads out over 800 acres, including hills, a string of ponds, woods, a manor house, a formal park and lots of great running trails. This is my favorite place to run in London.

Hampstead Heath meadows

It's easy enough to get to, also, taking the Northern Line underground to Hampstead. And the old village of Hampstead itself is really scenic, with beautiful old streets, churches, graveyards and pubs. It's a posh area that most London visitors don't ever visit. Those lucky ones who actually get to stay there!

NOTE: see the Destinations Tips page for tips about spending your free time in this great town!#
 
The Heath can be divided into the larger East Heath (which includes Parliament Hill, most of the ponds and Kenwood Manor) and the smaller West Heath, which includes Golders Hill Park and an extension to the north. The two parts are split north/south by Spaniards Road and North End Way.

This route will visit some of the nicest parts of the village, then loop around the East Heath, providing one of the most varied and charming settings London has to offer.

The East Heath Run
Standing with your back to the Hampstead Tube Station entrance, turn right and run uphill on Heath Street just one block, and take the first right turn, and then run downhill on Back Lane for another block. There are some beautiful cottages along this lane. When the street ends at the next intersection, Flask Walk, turn right at the Flask pub and run through the pedestrian shopping block.

The way to the left looks nice, too, but don't worry, we'll come back that way later.

Back Lane during a shower

The little pedestrian lane runs back into Hampstead High Street, where you turn left and run downhill until the shops end, at Downshire Hill, where you turn left. This is another street full of quaint old homes, with cast-iron verandas and climbing rose bushes.

Cottages off Downshire Hill

The street runs directly to the Heath, just past the Freemasons Arms pub. When the street ends, continue into the park. This first part is Pryors Field, used as a fairgrounds and parking lot. You'll see a pond to the right, with flats behind it.

Keep running straight, and when the path splits, take the way to the left, with the next pond to your right. After the second pond, turn right over the pedestrian path between it and the third pond, the mixed-bathing pond. Yes, you could swim here. I've done it before, sneaking in after hours, but the water was a bit murky in the late summer.

Mixed baths in the summer: photo by Chris Hauser

After those ponds, the path curves to the right, going though a bit of woods and then begins going uphill on a grassy hill. This is Parliament Hill. When you get to the top, you'll get a great view of London. You can even see a bit of Big Ben and Parliament, to the right of the London Eye ferris wheel.

Ahead of you, eastwards, downhill across the lawn, you'll see more ponds and then another hill rising beyond: that's Highgate, with its famous graveyard.

View from Parliament Hill, photo by Chris Hauser

Run straight down the path to the ponds, then turn left on the paved path running northwards, with the ponds on your right.

Just keep running north. You'll pass the mens' swimming pond and the ladies' pond, and still more ponds. After the last pond, the path will lead into a field where the real track ends, and there is only a trampled way through the meadow ahead. Just run straight across. You will run into the next real path on the other side of the meadow.

Soon you'll come to a sign marking the entrance to the grounds of the Kenwood Estate at a fenced-in woods.

Kenwood Estate entrance

Follow the path into the woods, following the path branching to the right side. The woods are very old and dark, full of giant oaks. Lions and tigers and bears, oh my! If you don't like going through old woods, just go around them on the right side of the fence till you come to the next entrance.

The ancient Ken-Wood: lions and tigers and bears, oh my!

The path eventually curves to the left as it comes into the mowed lawns of Kenwood Estate. You'll see the big manor house ahead. This 250-year-old mansion is now open to the public. The path curves to the left, going right between the house and the lawn.

A bit of film trivia: The Kenwood lawn was the location of a Notting Hill film scene where Julia Roberts is filming a Henry James period film, and poor Hugh Grant overhears her tell a colleague that Hugh is "just some guy", breaking his heart.

Kenwood House without Hugh or Julia

The wide gravel path now goes by the house's formal gardens on the right, full of rhododendrons and azaleas. When you come to the wooden gate on the right, go out through the gate, keeping towards the left with the path as it winds up through more lawn. This rolling field is still part of the Kenmore Estate.

Soon you'll come to the real exit of the estate, going through the old iron fence. When going out the gate, keep to the left. It quickly turns right again and then heads southwards the whole way back towards Parliament Hill, curving through the woods.

There are some amazing old oak trees here. You'll pass a grassy knoll with a bench on it, to your left. Soon you'll be able to see across the grassy fields leading down to the string of ponds to your left. It is a bit hard to explain how to navigate this stretch, where many unmarked paths intersect, but just keep going straight south.

Way back from Kenwood to Parliament Hill

Eventually, you'll run right into the paved path that took you up Parliament Hill, where you turn right to follow the path out past the first ponds into Pryors Field and exit the Heath into Downshire Hill street again. But this time, turn right at the first chance, on Willow Road, just before the Fremasons Arms.

Willow Road goes uphill for a while (sorry!). When you get to Burgh House museum, turn left on Flask Walk, another street with nice old homes. Flask brings us to the Flask Pub and the pedestrian shopping block again, which you run through again, but this time turn right on the High Street to run the last block back to the tube station.

Along Flask Walk

Now that you've gotten a feel for the Heath, the next time you can explore some of the other paths between Kenmore House and the village: turning right when you leave the Kenmore Estate to run towards the Vale of Health, or on to the West Heath.