Dresden Old Town/New Town Running Route

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Length: 9 km (5.6 miles), terrain flat

Photos courtesy of www.pixelio.de

Dresden running routes:
Dresden Old Town/New Town
Dresden Elbe River Route
Dresden Grosser Garten Route
For more running routes, see Route List.

Dresden, once known as the Florence of the North, has been rebuilding itself for half a century, after being almost completely bombed-out in World War II. The rebuilding went slowly, and much of the new stuff was uninspired people-boxes built during the communist era. Since the German reunification, the rest of the empty lots have been filling quickly, with more care for the historic nature of the neighborhoods.

Dresden old town, from the other side of the Elbe, photo by Martin Goldmann

Each time I get to Dresden, it's looking more complete, has regained more of its old elegance and culture. I always look forward to getting back there.

If you're running in Dresden, there are a few ways you could head: through the Volkspark and then out over the "Blue Wonder" bridge to the vineyards of Loschwitz, or you could just run out along the Elbe River beneath the palaces along the bluff, or you could also head out north to the extensive woods of the Dresdner Heide. Or you could take a run like this, doing a tourist loop through the historic districts of town.

Dresden Old Town/New Town Route
We'll start the run at the Theaterplatz, in the middle of the most imposing old-town buildings. This is the heart of the Saxon capital: the royal palace, the Semper Opera House, the Zwinger gardens and the Hofkirche church surround you. The ensemble is breathtaking, and all of them warrant a visit inside later. And the Elbe River is just a few steps away.

The Zwinger, photo by Templermeister

The Zwinger was built by August the Strong, who had just managed to gain the title of King of Poland, in addition to his normal title of Prince-Elector of Saxony. He had longed for a king's title, and now he wanted to build a kingly setting for himself in his capital, after having seen the French and their Versailles dreamworld. The church and opera followed later.

Hofkirche and Schloß (palace), photo by Ulrike Jonack

The church was the first Catholic one in the Protestant city, and was needed now that the Saxon princes were also kings of Catholic Poland. This beautiful church was a jewel added to the growing baroque town center.

Let's run right towards the Zwinger, heading southwest through its arched gateway through the middle of the north wing. You'll come out into an impressive courtyard, surrounded by baroque arcades and galleries. Directly across the courtyard, a giant crown tops one arcade: the Saxon kings were certainly not into understatement.

Do a loop counter-clockwise through the courtyard, exiting on the east side, coming out onto the street, facing the rebuilt Taschenberg Palais. This building was rebuilt in the last years of the German Democratic Republic, and its pre-fabricated sections were only partially based on the original, but still it's better than most pre-fab boxes. The Sophienkeller restaurant in the cellar is a great experience, though: it occupies a labyrinth of ancient vaulted rooms, where waiters and musicians dressed in historic costumes bring back the old Dresden, and some are pretty funny (if you speak German, anyway), impersonating August the Strong and other historic figures.

Run to the left, then right, to go around the front side of the building, used as a hotel. Across the square you can see the royal palace, with its round towers. Run straight through the round archway bridging the two buildings.

When you get to the end of the palace, turn left on Schloß Straße. There is a big archeological dig in the big empty lot remaining behind the palace. To the right is the socialist-era Cultural Palace, looking totally out of place.

Run north along this back-side of the royal palace, and go through the next arched opening that goes out into the square out front of the Schloß. You will be facing the Hofkirche again, with the main facade of the palace behind you, with its titans holding up the archway, and a mural with a procession of Saxon rulers marching unperturbed through history, to their demise in 1918.

Steps to Brühlsche Terrasse, photo by Bildpixel

We'll run back along that wall later, on our way back. But for now, run straight ahead, towards the river until you pass the next building on the right, the courthouse. Take the stairway going up to the right, before the shore road. This brings you to the Brühlsche Terrasse, a raised promenade and park on top of the old town walls.

Run straight, and you'll have a great view of the river and the historic steamboats waiting for tourists along the bank. Across the river, you can see the Neustadt (new town), where we will soon be running. On the right, you'll first pass the Kunstakademie (Art Academy), then the Albertinum art museum in the old armory building.

Brühlsche Terrasse, photo by Juergen Gessner

This is one of my favorite little parks, with great views in every direction, statues and fountains, and interesting arched cellar rooms and hallways down in the old fortress below.

Kunstakademie, photo by Ulrich Velten

You can't exit the park near the river: the walls have no way out there, so run back towards the Albertinum and take the first stairs down into the little park below. This path takes you to the modernistic cubes of the new synagogue, newly rebuilt on the spot of the old one, burned down in the Kristalnacht pogrom of 1938.

You are now facing St. Petersburger Straße, leading to the left over the Carolabrücke bridge over the Elbe. There's a lane reserved for pedestrians, which you can take just by running along the left side of the bridge, next to the tram tracks.

Running over the bridge, you have more beautiful views of the old town behind you. Across the river, take the first stairs down to the left. We'll run along the riverside, going west, with the river to your left. The riverside is a wide lawn, with a government ministry building on the right.

You are running towards the older stone Augustusbrücke. The path goes under the bridge, where you keep going straight along the riverside. Across the river, what looks like a giant mosque is the 100-year-old Yenidze cigarette factory, named after the old Ottoman province where they once got their tobacco.

Before you come to the next bridge, you'll see a classical building with a curving green-copper roofline on the right, the Japanisches Palais. It was originally built by August the Strong to hold his porcelain collection (hey, a king's gotta have dishes, right?). Just past the building, turn right and run past it, cross the street at the tram stop, and run straight through the triangular plaza ahead (can you call it a "square" if it's triangular?).

Run straight along Königstraße, with its classical house-fronts and nice restaurants. Keep running till the street ends at the circular plaza (no "square" again), Albertplatz. You need to go to the far side of the circle, so run along either side, cross busy Bauzner Straße, then run up Alaunstraße. You are now coming into the funky part of town, full of interesting pubs, unusual restaurants and shops, full of students and bohemians.

Kunsthof, photo by Hans-Christian Hein

This part of town harbors some hidden treasures behind some very nondescript facades. At Alaunstrße 70, go through the entranceway and you'll run into the first courtyard of a maze of connected spaces, the Kunsthof. Each space is decorated in its own creative direction, and populated by artists galleries and shops. Slow down to a walk here, you'll want to take a closer look.

Rain-gutters in the Kunsthof, photo by Hans-Christian Hein

You'll come out of the courtyards on the other side, on Görlitzer Straße. Turn right and run one block to Louisenstraße, where you turn left and run till it ends at Prießnitzstraße, where you follow the curve to the right. In just a few blocks this street runs into the bigger Bauzner Straße, where you turn right.

Another Kunsthof courtyard, by Ilona Steinchen

The next block, on the right, has a really great shop, the world's most interesting milk store: Pfund's. The whole interior is done in neo-renaissance tiles. Keep running west on Bauzner Straße until you get back to the Albertplatz circle again. The last part can be run away from the street, in a park on the left side.

In Pfunds Milchladen

On Albertplatz, go left till you reach the big pedestrian street that leads back to the river, Hauptstraße. This street has a mixture of old baroque houses and socialist-era newer buildings where the old ones were bombed out. Stay on the right side, along the church and old buildings. If you look closely, you'll see 2 entrances to courtyards with artisan shops: take a quick look in, they're really interesting, and with baroque gardens in the back.

Keep running down the tree-lined pedestrian street, which ends at a golden statue of August the Strong on his horse. Keep running straight, and you'll run over the Augustusbrücke, towards the old town again.

The golden rider, photo by Uwe Wagschal

When you cross the bridge, turn left to do one last small loop through the old town, running directly along the water towards the tourist boats. You will pass an arched opening in the fortress wall on the right, then come to another opening. Turn right and run through this second opening, Münzgasse, with its restaurants and pubs. This is the place to come in the evening if you are staying near the old town.

The Frauenkirche over the rooftops, photo by Templermeister

At the end of the block, you'll come to the rebuilt Frauenkirche, one of Germany's most beautiful churches. It was basically an empty lot with a couple of ruined walls the first time I saw it. It has now been rebuilt, with donations from around the world. The black stones peppering the facade are the few original stones that were usable in the restoration. The original church was paid for by the townspeople, showing that they were ready to build just as imposing a church as the king had just done for the Catholics.

Martin Luther at the Frauenkirche, photo by Rolf Handke

Run a loop around the church. The neighborhood around it was also empty lots 20 years ago, but they are slowly being rebuilt in classical style. Run west on Töpferstraße and you'll come to the wall mural again, with the procession of Saxon princes on it. Right at the beginning there is a great courtyard on the left that warrants a loop through it, with its black and white painted-on false renaissance facade, one of the oldest parts of the palace.

Follow the procession mural towards the Hofkirche, jog past the church, and you will come out right where we started, at Theaterplatz in front of the opera.

Semper Opera, by Ulrich Velten

Lugano to Gandria Lakeside Running Route

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Length: 10.7 km (or 5.3 km one way, take boat or bus back), that's 6.6 miles for whole run

For another Lugano route, see Lugano to Paradiso Route.

Pictures by myself and www.pixelio.de

When I heard that I had to go back to Lugano for a business trip, I was really looking forward to it. I hadn't been there in almost 20 years, but my memories were nothing but pleasant: a beautiful old town perched on the north edge of an alpine lake (Lago di Lugano), with steep mountains rising all around, balmy evenings on the waterfront, watching teenagers in the lanterned little pedalo boats bobbing around out on the lake while the boat-rental guy worriedly paced around and occasionally yelled out over the water, hoping that they would bring the boats back before closing time. And long evening runs along the lake and up in the hillside neighborhoods of nearby Monte Bré.

View over Lugano, Castagnola in distance, photo by Rainer Sturm

This time I was there in January, not summer, with short days and freezing nights, so it wasn't quite the same. But the town hasn't changed much: elegant old streets oozing old-world charm, arcaded storefronts full of expensive Swiss watches, jewelry and chocolates. Grand hotels and grand cafés, the waterfront casino, the little cable-car to take people up the hill to the train station: who can escape such quiet charm?

Arcade in Lugano, photo by Rainer Sturm

This time, the mountains seemed even steeper than I remembered. While running, I had to watch my step in the dark, and try not to slip on the ice, but I enjoyed it anyway.

Lugano is pressed in along the lake by hills and mountains, so a run along the lake promenade is the logical choice. But there is a fairly loud street running along almost the whole waterfront, so it isn't as ideal as it looks. Only the beautiful, if smallish, Parco Municipio in the town center offers a quiet retreat from traffic noise. So, if you only have a short time to run anyway, you should just plan to jog a few laps around this green waterside oasis.

The park has everything a nice little town park should have: statues and fountains, giant sycamores, pines and sable palms, a winding lakeside shoreline with gorgeous views of mountains and water, an elegant old boathouse, pedalo boats, an adventure playground for the kids, the cantonal library and school. This is the kind of place I would prefer to be buried and spend an eternity.

Early morning view from the park

But there is another route that heads east out of town, which, after a couple of kilometers, provides a beautiful, quiet, natural trail along the lakefront, and ends in a picturesque village: Gandria.

Gandria was once reachable only by boat. Even today the town alleys are car-free, as the modern lake road runs up above the village itself. The footpath that we will follow was first carved out of the lakeside rocks in the 1930s, and is now a perfect spot for hikers and runners. Other tourists show up by the regular tour boats or drive there, parking above, along the road.

NOTE: another alternative run would be to run on Monte Bré. There are some neighborhoods along the mountainside with quiet streets, reached via the lake road. And like all Swiss mountains, it has a little red cable-railway (funicular) that goes to the top. You could do a run on top of the world up there around Bré village, and even run down, if you felt like it. One path leads down to Gandria. The funicular train goes every half-hour and costs 20 francs, round-trip, or 14 francs one-way.

The Lugano Gandria Run
The run follows the lakefront road for a few kilometers, then cuts off into a waterfront path, as the road serpentines its way up the hillside. We'll start right in the heart of town, at the Piazza della Riforma in front of the town hall, right at the lakefront.

Run across the plaza to the lakefront street, Riva Albertolli. There is no pedestrian crossing here, so take the pedestrian tunnel right there at the curb, coming up at the water side at the biggest pedalo rentals.These pedal-driven boats were made in the form of 1950s cars, and I've never seen similar ones anywhere.

Turn left and run eastwards, with the water to your right side. In just a few blocks, the road curves to the left around the casino, but keep running straight into the Parco Municipio. Stay along the water's edge, as the path curves to the right. The park ends in a point going out to the lake, abruptly halted by the Cassarate River, which flows along the east side of the park.

View from park, by Domsen

Take the path along the river, running away from the lake. You will pass a pedestrian bridge, going over to the Lido beach on the other side, but you can't run through the Lido along the water: you have to keep going inland to run around it, turning right on the first street, Viale Castagnola. You are now running straight towards the massive wall of Monte Bré.

This is the shore road again, with quite a bit of traffic, and it soon passes the Lido and the tour-boat operations. When you get to the ugly Migros supermarket (OK, what supermarkets aren't ugly?), you can turn right to run through a bit of shoreside park again, with a little marina, and get away from the cars for a minute.

NOTE: When you then pass the Castagnola Hotel on the left side, where the road curves to the right, you'll see Via Pico leading off to the left. The funicular railroad to Monte Bré is just 200 meters down the street, if you want to head up the mountain. There is also a stairway just before the station, if you want to go up by foot.

You will now find yourself leaving Lugano. The houses end, and the road starts following the base of Monte Bré, going gradually uphill, with just an asphalt walkway next to the street. You might be wondering what kind of a stupid route this is, as a steady stream of cars buzz by you. But relief is on the way: after just half a kilometer, just before the road begins to serpentine its way up the mountain, a small street branches off to the right, Via Cortivo.

Hotel along the way to Gandria

Follow this street, which goes by some villas in the town of Castagnola, as it guides you back towards the lakeside. After half a kilometer, the street ends in a little parking lot, and the real footpath to Gandria begins.

From now on, it's straight through a quiet landscape of olive groves, a grotto, beaches and anchorages on the Sentiero di Gandria. The route is promoted as the "Olive Path", and there has been an initiative underway to restore the old, abandoned olive groves that once were plentiful in the area. Enjoy the beautiful waterfront views of the Italian mountains on the other side of the lake.

Gandria, photo by DoRe

When you reach the village, in just another kilometer, you'll definitely want to follow the twisted alleyways and stairs of this charming lakeside oasis. A nice beer or glass of wine is definitely in order to reward yourself for the run out of town.

Alley in Gandria

The way back is the same way as you came, unless you want to take a tourboat for a change of propulsion, cutting the total running distance to 5.3 km.

Gandria waterfront

Prague Castle - Petrin Hill Running Route

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Length: 6.5 km (4 miles), terrain hilly

Photos courtesy of www.pixelio.de Thanks!

Prague Running Routes:
Old-Town / New-Town Run
Petrin Hill Run
For more running routes, see Route List.

Prague is, in my opinion, the most beautiful city in Europe. There is no other major city with such an intact collection of medieval architecture to astound you at every turn. The only problem is that it seems like every tourist in the world has discovered this, too. The old town is now fast in the hands of the tourist trade: local Czechs don't even hang out there any more. Every shop caters to the tourists, and the streets are packed with them.

Lesser town gate tower, by Tokamuwi

NOTE: see the Destinations Tips page for tips about spending your free time in this great town!
 
I remember my first trip there, in the late 1990s, when Prague was a paradise, with great food and beer at cheap prices, discovered only by a small number of young Europeans and Americans who were living their own private dreams in the partially restored old town. Most were working as waiters in the daytime, and populating the lively, historic pubs at night. The next time I came back, three years ago, everything was beautifully restored, and too expensive then for backpackers or for the local townspeople.

But enough of my grouchy complaints: Prague remains a jewel, waiting to be explored. Chances are that you will spend a lot of time criss-crossing the winding old-town lanes during the day, so here is a route that will take you on the path less-travelled by, and that will make all the difference. (Robert Frost pun intended). We'll run on the other side of the river: up to the castle and its surroundings, then circle around Petrin Hill before running back down to the river again.

Charles Bridge, photo by Doris Prüggler

We'll start right in the middle of everything, right on the 600-year-old Charles Bridge (named after King Karl, who was also Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire during the short time of Bohemia's heyday). I know that the bridge will be sagging under the weight of the tourist masses, but somehow it's the perfect place to start anything in Prague. From the bridge, you have a view of both parts of the city and its strange gothic towers, with the water flowing beneath, the statues gazing above you, and the castle, our first objective, crowning the Hrad Hill over the Lesser Town (east side of the river, across from the Old Town).

View from the Charles Bridge up to the castle and St. Vitus Cathedral, by Ursula Münch

The Prague Castle Run
Turn your back on the Prague old town and run west along the bridge towards the squared gothic towers on the town walls straight ahead. You run through the gate and start going a bit uphill along Mosteka, with its beautiful shops. The whole way will be uphill now, until you get to the castle.

Running through the Lesser Town, by Tokamuwi

In 3 blocks, you'll be at an open square, Malostranske Namesti, with its tram station behind the giant St. Nikolas baroque church.

Keep running straight, with the church on your right. The street then turns to the right, going around the church, where you now see its impressive front facade and the Maria column in front of Lichtenstein Palace across the street.

Keep heading straight north as you cross the next street, continuing on Zamecka. The street ends after a block, and you'll see 2 ways leading off to the left: a street, Thunovska, and a stairway, both running parallel up towards the castle entrance. Take the stairs.

Top of the stairs, by Xenia B.

The stairs are steep, so you'll have to decide for yourself if you just walk it or try to keep up a faster pace. There is a great view along the whole way up to the top. Eventually, the stairs will turn to the right and lead you right up to the entranceway into the castle grounds, with their honor guards and statues. And because there is no entrance fee, let's do a loop through it.

Castle entrance, by Tokamuwi

Just head straight through the first courtyard, then the next. You'll then find yourself staring straight at the St. Vitus cathedral. If you're decently enough dressed (OK, who ever is when they're jogging), you should definitely take a stroll through it. Otherwise, you'll just have to come back later.

St. Vitus Cathedral in the castle, by Tokamuwi

Continue heading east through the castle grounds, with the Hapsburg kaisers' palace on the right side. They ruled Bohemia from this fortress for hundreds of years, until their empire crumbled at their defeat in World War I. It's now the home of the Czech President.

When you get towards the back end of the castle, follow the lanes towards the left to lead you to the Golden Lane and its miniature half-timbered houses. Once you get to the end of the castle, turn around and run back out to the front entrance again, maybe going around the other side of the cathedral.

When you get back out to the square, with the castle to your back, you face the neighborhood that serviced the castle, with its scattered palaces of the Austrian and Bohemian aristocrats who felt they needed a residence close to the kaiser's.

Keep running straight, past Schwarzenberg Palace on the left and jog a few more blocks until you come to an open square in front of Ceminski Palace, now a government ministry. Turn right for a short look at the beautiful baroque church across the square, the Loreto, built by the Habsburgs as a gift to the Bohemians after their protestant uprising was crushed, and Catholicism was ushered back into the land with an iron hand.

Get back on the same street we were on before the detour to the church, and keep heading west. In just a block, you'll see Strahov Monastery coming up on your left. Its baroque church rises behind the row of houses along the street on the left. Stay on the left side, where the street splits into a lower part with the street car tracks, and the upper part rising on the left.

Strahov Monastery library, by Carina Döring

You'll see the ornate gate leading into the monastery grounds. This place houses one of the most beautiful classical libraries in the world, with its curiosity cabinets and old globes. Another place to come back to later!

I like to loop through the compact monastery grounds. You can then head out the small exit through the eastern wall  (towards your left when you first enter the grounds) and you'll find yourself looking out down the hill at the city across the valley. The whole hillside before you is a green parkland full of vineyards and fruit trees.

View from Petrin Hill, by Lars Paege

You'll see a path leading southwards towards the Eifel-tower-like lookout tower to the right on Petrin Hill. We'll follow the path, which is fairly level, with open lawns rolling down the slope to your left, and  wooded land rising to your right. This green area is one of the favorite getaways for Prague families.

Just keep heading towards the tower. Above, to the right, is the olympic stadium, and the thick walls of an old fortress that once guarded the hilltop. You could climb the tower: it has 300 steps and costs about 3 dollars, but I'll leave that to more ambitious runners.

The Petrin Hill Tower

Continue running straight downhill from here, towards the river. This area is more like a real park, with a network of paths, statues, bridges, and even an inclined railway for people who don't like to walk.

At the bottom of the park, you will come out onto Ujezd Street. Turn left and run the couple of blocks to Ricni, where you turn right and run the 100 meters straight to the riverfront park on Klampa Island. You have beautiful views of the gothic towers across the river and of the bridge from here. You could run straight through the park, with the river on your right side, back to the Charles Bridge at the other end of the little island.

View from the tower, by M. Gade

But we'll take one last little detour here to a special place, keeping to the left to run over the bridge across the millstream when you see the Kampa pizza place. You are now on Velkopievorske Namesti, and in just 50 meters, look to your right. You'll see a long yellow wall all covered with grafitti, poems, lyrics, flowers. This is the John Lennon Wall, started by protesters during the communist days, when John Lennon's lyrics were considered subversive, and people who were caught writing them were put into jail. The police regularly painted over the writing, and young people kept putting it back up. Eventually, the people won, and the wall is kept up to this day.

The wall actually belongs to the Knights of the Maltese Cross, and their gothic church and palace behind the wall are interesting in themselves.

Velkopievorske Namesti goes on to curve to the right and runs back into Mostecka, where you can turn right and run straight out through the gate tower again, and onto the Charles Bridge. Hope you enjoyed it!

Montevideo Rambla Out-and-Back Running Route

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Length: 5.8 km (3.6 miles), terrain flat

Article and photos by Heather Marr

NOTE: Thanks Heather! What a great place to run. I hope I get to try it sometime. See Heather's other great route for San Francisco at San Francisco Marina Green to Fort Point Out-and-Back

For more running routes, see the Route List!

Having relocated from San Francisco, California, and jogged hundreds of miles in the cool, hilly, green Bay Area, I found running in Montevideo to be quite a change. For one thing, there aren’t  many green parks here, and they tend to be on the small side. Also, sidewalks on city streets—while decently maintained and quite wide—often contain potholes, loose tiles, or dog poop (sometimes all at the same time).  Thankfully, the city is blessed with a lovely beachfront promenade that is around 13 miles long, connecting Ciudad Vieja and Centro (downtown) with several beach neighborhoods.

You can hop on to the Rambla anywhere and have a good run. If you like people-watching and don’t mind weaving in and out among walkers,  bicyclists, toddlers on trikes, and groups of people just hanging out and taking mate (the Uruguayan beverage of choice—some people drink multiple liters of it each day), run on a warm day anytime from around 9:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. If, like me, you prefer less crowding and cooler temperatures, go in the early morning or really late at night. Except for Ciudad Vieja, most of the Rambla is safe and well lit around the clock. In general, the whole city is mostly flat, so if you love hill training, you’re out of luck. The strong winds on the coast will give you some good resistance, though.

This run is an easy out-and-back starting in the neighborhood Pocitos.

Montevideo Rambla Out-and-Back Route
Get your bearings in Plaza Gomensoro. (If you have small kids, you have to take a look at the typical Uruguayan wooden swings there, usually somewhat rickety, perched directly over concrete. That’ll teach those kids not to fall!) Take a deep breath, and sprint through the traffic on the often-busy highway that runs parallel to the promenade. Pedestrians don’t have the right of way in Uruguay.

Plaza Gomensoro

Take a look at Playa Pocitos, resisting the urge to scrap the whole run and jump into the water already.

Pocitos Beach

Head west (right, if you’re facing the beach) on the Rambla and start running. Note: If your knees prefer softer surfaces or you’re tired of tripping over people on crowded days, this route includes many areas where you can step off the main promenade and run on the adjacent grass.

Punta Trouville

You’ll pass Punta Trouville on the left, and then the restaurant Che Montevideo. Incidentally, you’ll occasionally hear locals calling each other Che. No, they’re not all named after Che Guevara, though you’ll see plenty of T-shirts for sale with that famous Argentine revolutionary’s picture on the front. It’s just that Che is the Rioplatense dialect equivalent of  Dude, as in Hola, Che!

Che: hey where's the beard, Che?

Right across the street from Che,  don’t miss Castillo Pittamiglio, a castle built by local alchemist and architect Humberto Pittamiglio. The castle’s unusual façade peeks out from among all the modern residential high-rises that line the Rambla in this part of Montevideo.

Castillo Pittamiglio

Just a bit farther, you’ll pass the Nautilus Yachting Club and then the first of several soccer fields. Soccer is a big deal in Uruguay, and the country’s fourth place finish in the 2010 World Cup is a huge source of national pride.  If a game is happening on any of the fields you’ll pass during the run, it’s worth stopping for a minute to check it out. Even yacht-club-level soccer draws some enthusiastic fans.

Next is another upscale restaurant, El Vieja y el Mar (The Old Lady and the Sea), with its little outdoor cabanas that seem perfect for a romantic meal.

El Vieja y el Mar

Keep running and admiring the water. Impressively large body of water…why is it so brown? Since you can’t see Buenos Aires—or anything—on the other side, it can be easy to forget that what you’re looking at  isn’t the ocean, but the widest river in the world, the Rio de la Plata. With a maximum width of around 140 miles, it merges into the Atlantic Ocean at Punta del Este, a couple of hours east of Montevideo…and there the water is blue. The river is quite nice for swimming, though, especially if you prefer smaller waves. And hey, it tastes like ocean water (plenty of salt) and serves up some good fish. In fact, you could buy some at the little fish stand on the way back.

Pescaderia on the beach

So far, you’ve been heading southwest and are likely feeling a fairly strong wind: either a headwind or a tailwind. Usually you get hammered most as you reach the southernmost point of the route, just past the Club Montero soccer field and a rugby field. You’ll get some relief as you reach the Ancap gas station and start curving slightly northward.

Rounding the bend, finally less headwind!

After rounding the bend, there’s yet another big field on your left, and on the right is the large, green Punta Carretas Club de Golf.

Keep going until you reach the stone plaque for the Memorial del Holocausto del Pueblo Judio on your left. If you don’t mind stopping for a few minutes, you can walk toward the water and visit the memorial (definitely worth a return trip, if you want to keep moving for now).

Turn around and head back to Playa Pocitos, for a 5.8 km (3.62 mile) run. Hit the sand and jog the length of the beach and back to add on almost another mile and a half. Or just go for a swim.

Singapore Sights Loop Running Route

Click here for route map
Length: 7.5 km (4.7 miles), terrain flat

Singapore Running Routes:
Main tourist sights  
East Coast Park  
Chinatown  
For other running routes, see Routes List.
Pictures courtesy of Google StreetView.

NOTE: Remember, Singapore is in the tropics, and the climate is muggy: expect very high humidity, so try to run in the mornings, when the air is coolest.

I love Singapore now, but my first impression of the city/country was that the city-state was, so to say, a bit boring: A downtown full of sterile banking high-rises, but not much life in the streets, everything a well-oiled money machine. It was lacking the funkier evening street-life that you can find in Hong Kong, and there was nothing there to compare with London's West End for entertainment. It seemed even more suspect to me when I saw how Singaporeans liked to spend their evenings strolling on Orchard Road, which is basically a string of shopping malls. Why anyone would want to spend their free time in a mall has always mystified me.

Cricket Club and Supreme Court

All in all, my judgement was that the breathless redevelopment of the town center had created one new sky-scraper after another, but somehow none of them seemed to touch the elegance and human-proportions of the old, British colonial architecture.

But I had to admit, it was all, well, very pleasant. Landscaping has been lavished on every corner and along every street. There are nice parks and lots of waterfront. Everything is clean, crime-free and, there's that word again: pleasant. Singapore learned from the British to adorn their bridges and public places with flowers, but with a decidedly tropical, exotic flavor. I would have named the city Pleasantville, if anyone ever asked me, not that anyone is planning to.

And now the Singapore city planners have decided to make the town more lively. In the last few years, they have been building new theaters, tourist attractions, stadiums, casinos and golf courses at a furious rate, all concentrated around the Marina Bay area. The north end of Marina Bay has been built up with the Esplanade theaters and a whole quarter full of modern office buildings, shopping, hotels, etc. along Nicoll Highway. It looks like Lisbon's Oriente quarter, the ex-World's Fairgrounds, and it has been topped off with a London Eye-ish ferris wheel, the Singapore Flyer. And the town seems to be genuinely a more fun place to be, but still remaining really pleasant.

It also took me a bit of time to discover that the older neighborhoods to the east and west of downtown have a lot of charm and variety: it's an ethnic mix with a blending of lots of interesting sights and smells. You'll find shops with signs in Chinese, Arabic, Hindi, trendy boutiques, one after the other. There are Tao temples, Buddist shrines, mosques, Hindu temples and churches all in a row.

So, now that I finally learned to appreciate Singapore, here's a running route that visits a lot of this stuff, and lets you discover all the pleasantries awaiting you in this very pleasant place.

Singapore Sights Route
We'll do a loop through the city center, from Outram in the southwest to Kallang in the northeast, zig-zagging through the most interesting neighborhoods. And where's a better place to start than in the heart of town, at Bridge Street on the Singapore River. With the parliament building across the bridge, you'll see the line of bum boats (ex-river barges, now tourist tourboats) lined up in the river. Along the riverfront on the right, on Boat Quay, is a line of waterfront restaurants and pubs in colonial-era row-houses, my favorite place to spend a warm Singapore evening.

Bridge Road starting place, Boat Quay dwarfed by downtown in background

Run straight down Boat Quay, with the water to your left, until you come to that great old Victorian suspension bridge, with the grand old Fullerton Hotel on your right. Turn left and run across the suspension bridge. You will run right towards the Asian Civilizations Museum in its restored government building.

On the other side of the bridge, turn left and run along the water to the statue of Sir Thomas Raffles, the city's founder, at his original landing spot. Then turn right and run along the sidewalk between the museum and the old parliament on your left. You'll then run along the backside of the Victoria Theatre.

Raffles' Landing

After the theater, you'll come out onto St. Andrew's Road, with the classical Supreme Court on the left, and the cricket club and its playing fields on the right. Run straight ahead, with the cricket fields on your right, and you'll see the fly's-eye-looking Esplanade theaters and the new Marina Bay development to the right.

When you cross Bras Basah Street, you'll see famous Raffle's Hotel on the left. (You'll also soon notice that half of Singapore is named after Raffles). The road is now called Beach Road, but continue jogging straight until after you cross Ophir Road. Here, in the Kallang neighboorhood, there are a lot of older, narrow streets full of exotic flair. The neighborhood is also home to lots of backpacker hostels nowadays.

Raffles' Hotel

Turn left on Arab Street, which is famous for its cloth-sellers and clothing shops. You'll soon see the colorful Sultan Mosque to the right. I actually like the street best a few blocks later when it changes its name to Upper Weld Road, and isn't famous for anything in particular, just a normal neighborhood. When you get to Kampong Kampor Road, turn right and run a few blocks to Veerasamy Road, where you turn left.

Little India

You are now in Little India. When you get to the next cross-street, Serangoon Road, you'll find a fantastic Hindu temple. Turn left here and run 3 blocks to Dunlop Street, with its jumble of shops, backpacker hostels and homes, where you turn left and run southwards again. After a couple of blocks, you'll pass another interesting mosque. At Jelan Besar, Dunlop Street ends, so you turn right and run for 2 blocks.

Dunlop Street

When you see a pedestrian bridge over the street, turn left into the lively pedestrian street, Albert Street. Continue to Queen Street, where you turn right, at the spot where all the rickshaws are waiting. Run straight down Queen Street until you hit one of Singapore's nicest parks, Fort Canning Park, located on a small hilltop. Queen Street runs into Canning Rise, where you turn right and run past the state archive building, then turn left and run up the hill into the park.

There is lush vegetation, a small lighthouse (a bit far from the water here!), thick fort walls and a nice spot to run. Loop through the park and exit near the radio tower, running east at Hill Street. Cross Hill Street and run the one block to North Bridge Road, where you turn right, with the new parliament on the left, and run one block back to the bridge where we started, 7.5 kilometers earlier.

Fort Canning Park entrance

After a shower, you should visit this spot again and drink a nice cool Tiger Beer at the riverside!

Singapore East Coast Park Running Route

Click here for route map
Length: 22.7 km (14.1 miles) but can be reduced to 8 km if you use the bus to get to/from the park, terrain flat

Singapore Running Routes:
Main tourist sights  
East Coast Park  
Chinatown  
For other running routes, see Routes List. 
Pictures courtesy of Google StreetView.

NOTE: Don't be intimidated by the length of this run: you can also take the 401 bus directly to the park. Catch the bus at the Circle Line's Mountbatten Station (CC7). The line runs along the park service road for the almost the entire length of the park, from Fort Road in the west to the jetty in the east. And you can get back on the bus at many bus stops, for a ride home.

With all the gigantic construction projects constantly sprouting up all over the Marina Bay waterfront in Singapore, it's nice that there's still a great shoreline run without any highrises and freeways: the East Coast Park.

In East Coast Park

This park is the most relaxed hangout in the downtown area. This 8-km-long strip of beachfront park is a popular get-away for families, bicyclists, in-line skaters, fishermen, campers, divers, sailors and skate-boarders. Ooops, did I forget runners? Well, let's correct that one real quick. A paved bike/pedestrian path plies the whole park, and you can also choose to run along the sand of the many beach stretches. Of course, you can turn around at any time. Plan the length to fit your needs.

The park stretches from the east end of Marina Bay and goes out to Changi. The East Bay Parkway parallels the park the whole way, and the park is serviced by several bus-lines, if you want to ride out there (see note at top).

The Marina Bay shore itself is changing so fast that you'll probably not be able to recognize half of it if you haven't been there in a few years. I expect that there will be a footpath there from the Marina South area sometime, but there's no way yet: just lots of construction.

The East Coast Park Route
We'll start the run at the Stadium MRT Station (subway), just between the National Stadium and the indoor stadium. Run west to the bay, with the sloping roof of the indoor stadium to your left, then turn left at the water and run to the suspension footbridge going south.

Footbridge with indoor stadium in background

Run across the bridge. Then run straight through the open square for one block, where you come to Tanjong Rhu Road. Turn left here and run straight down the road for a kilometer. You'll pass the Singapore Swimming Club on the right side, and then come to Fort Road.

Turn right at Fort Road and run the one block towards the raised Parkway and run under it, straight into East Coast Park. You will quickly see the parking lot and the pedestrian/bikeway going off to the left.

East Coast Park near Fort Road

From now on, just follow the path as far as you feel. The whole park was built on reclaimed land, and the beaches are also man-made, but it's a great thing to have. You'll run by a variety of activity areas spread along the shore.

A narrow spot in the park

First comes a shopping center with playground, then a golf driving-range, then the Goldkist Resort, the Seafood Centre, etc. Make sure you also do some running on the softer beach sand. The Bedok Jetty (pier) is the fishermen's hangout, and has a good view when the air isn't too hazy. The campground and skateboard park are right next to the jetty.

The Singapore Sailing Federation marina marks the end of the line in the east, and is the place to turn around. If you keep running eastwards from here, golf courses take over the waterfront, and then the Changi navy base.

The camping area

Turn around here and head back to the stadium the same way you came.